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BAYT SYRIA

Hama, Syria

Before and After

The Wheels Were Obsolete for a Century Before Anyone Noticed

The norias of Hama stopped being useful long before they stopped turning. What they do now is a different job, done just as seriously.


By The Bayt Syria places desk

17 December 2020

1 min read

Hama


The wooden norias of Hama turning in the Orontes.

A noria lifts water from the Orontes into an aqueduct using no power except the river. It is a beautiful solution to a problem that pumps solved, cheaply, a very long time ago.

Before

For centuries the wheels were infrastructure. They irrigated gardens and supplied households, and they were maintained the way infrastructure is maintained — grudgingly, continuously, by people who would have replaced them with something better if something better had existed.

After

Something better arrived. The wheels kept turning anyway, because taking them out would have cost money and leaving them cost nothing, which is how a great many historic objects actually survive.

They were not saved. They were, for about a hundred years, simply not worth removing. Preservation came later and took the credit.

The maintenance is real and it is expensive. Timber in constant water has a short life; the wheels are rebuilt in sections, and the men who do it are working from measurements that are not written down anywhere useful.

The sound they make is the argument for all of it. It is a groan, more or less continuous, and it carries further than you expect. People who grew up in Hama describe noticing it only when it stops.

Photographs

  • Vyacheslav Argenberg / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY 4.0) · Source

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